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W817 Harmony Lane
East Troy, WI 53120
Phone: 414-881-5624
info@firmfootings.com
Older, Newer, Multiplex, Manufactured; We inspect them all
Home Inspections by Firm Footings, L.L.C. are very comprehensive and include exterior, garage, electrical service, roof, basement, air conditioner / compressor, chimney, general interior, water heater, heating system, attic, and kitchen, laundry and bathroom specific inspections.
Firm Footings will provide a Summary Report of our findings and photos taken during the inspection, prior to departing the premises. Our Full Report, usually issued within a few business days of the inspection, details what we found and how to correct any problems noted.
| Examples of What We Look For, Avoiding and Repairing Common Problems: |
Driveway:
Concrete often cracks due to drying, freeze heaving and shrinking. Excessive cracks often create trip hazards and correction may require replacement of the concrete. Asphalt driveways need regular maintenance and resealing.
Sidewalks:
Walks can become damaged by tree roots and settlement. Excessive cracks can often be repaired by replacing sections of the sidewalk.
Retaining Walls:
These are used to stabilize steep banks which control soil movement. Water that is allowed to collect behind the wall can exert pressure causing the wall to move. Drainage provisions are often not evident with a visual evaluation. Sometimes efflorescence (a white powdery substance) is present on the wall due to no or blocked drainage. Retaining walls should appear straight or tilt slightly toward the earth they support. Walls that are cracked or leaning will need structural evaluation and repair.
Patio:
Patios are similar to driveways and sidewalks with respect to cracks and movement. If the patio is covered with carpet, it is recommended that the material be removed for evaluation. Patios should be installed to drain water away from the house.
Patio Cover:
Structures are built over decks, patios and porches to provide protection against the rain and shade from the sun. These structures are considered to be a structural element and require proper design and attachment. In most areas a permit is required for construction and it is recommended that you obtain all information available. If the cover is integral with the house roof, information will be provided in the roofing section of the report.
Decks/Porches:
If there is no access to the area below the deck or porch it is recommended that this area be opened for inspection. Many jurisdictions require a permit for decks and information should be obtained, if available. Decks or porches with waterproofed surfaces need regular maintenance and resealing approximately every three to five years to prevent cracking and deterioration. If carpet or other material covers the deck, we recommend removal for evaluation.
Fences and Gates:
Our evaluation of fences is limited to those areas which directly have an affect on the condition of the house. Fences that are surrounding pools must be of sufficient height for safety. Each jurisdiction has safety height standards. Gates that enter pool areas must be self-closing and latching.
Exterior Stairs:
Uneven steps are a trip hazard which should be corrected. The difference in the distance between one step and another should be no greater than 3/8 inch. Handrails should be secure and have a grip able surface. Two by four inch or two by six inch boards are not considered appropriate for handrails unless they are routed with a grip. Current standards call for narrow clearances between rails such that a four inch sphere may not pass through. Older rails had larger openings when installed and upgrading should be considered for child safety.
Exterior Walls:
Exterior wall coverings protect the wall framing and interior finishes from the weather. Any openings or penetrations in the covering should be properly sealed. Earth should not touch the wall covering and a clearance of approximately 4 to 6 inches should be maintained. Firewood should not be stored against wood framed walls. Planters that are against the house walls can promote rot and should be corrected.
Trim:
Trim includes the eaves, soffits, facia and moldings around the exterior. The eave is the portion of the roof that overhangs the wall. Soffits are enclosed eaves and should be properly vented to prevent moisture damage. Facia is the board installed at the end of the eave to give the house a finished appearance. Many times, water running off the roof flows onto this board causing damage.
Hose Faucets:
If hose faucets are winterized and shut off, they cannot be inspected. Anti-siphon devices for hose faucets prevent any contaminated water from being siphoned back into the house supply. These are easily installed if none are provided.
Gutters and Downspouts:
Downspouts should lead well away from the house foundation. Gutters should be cleared regularly to avoid damage to the structure and prevent blockages. Flat roofs that drain into area drains should be provided with a second drain system that will operate should the primary drain become blocked.
Chimney:
In this section of the report you will find our evaluation of the exterior of the chimney. Spark screens and rain caps are used over the chimney flue to prevent sparks escaping and water entering the fireplace. The top cement covering of the brick also diverts water from damaging the masonry and cracks should be sealed for protection.
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Floor:
Garage floors should be constructed of non-flammable materials. Carpeting or other floor coverings should be removed. The floor should also be sloped to drain out the overhead door.
Firewall/Ceiling:
A wall or ceiling that separates the garage from the house is considered a fire separation. The coverings of these areas should not have large holes.
Overhead Door:
Overhead door types vary from roll-up to tilt-up to sliding. Because the springs are under tremendous tension it is recommended that overhead doors only be serviced by professionals.
Automatic Opener:
Garage door opener remote controls are not tested. If a door hits an obstruction during closing is should reverse automatically for safety. Older openers may not be equipped with this safety function.
Electrical:
The garage is a common area for electrical wiring, lights and outlets to be added. One of the most common mistakes is using extension cords to power lights or garage door openers.
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Electric Service:
The electrical service refers to the wires that run from the street or main pole and enter the house either underground or through the rooftop. The number of wires that enter the panel determine the voltage of the service: 2 wires = 120 volt, 3 wires = 240 volt. A home that has only a 120 volt service would be considered out of date by today's standards because larger appliances that operate at 240 volts cannot be utilized.
Main Panel:
The capacity of the system is determined by the size of the service wires, the rating of the panel and the size of the main fuse or breaker. Some older panels will have fuses while newer systems use breakers. The main disconnect is used to shut the entire electrical system in the house off in case of emergency.
Wiring:
Copper and aluminum are common materials used for electrical wiring. The U.S. Product Consumer Safety Commission issues a booklet on the hazards of aluminum wire installations made in the early 1960's to the mid 1970's. Please obtain this information if aluminum is noted. Electrical wiring, outlets, lights and fixtures throughout the house will be randomly tested outlets and lights. Outlets may be tested for proper grounding and polarity.
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Asphalt Shingles:
Commonly called composition shingles, this material has a typical life expectancy of 12 to 25 years, depending on many factors. The number of roofs installed over existing shingles is limited to three and in some jurisdictions only two are allowed.
Wood Shake and Shingles:
Wood roofs will typically last 20 to 35 years depending upon the thickness and quality. Annual maintenance is required on wood roofs which consists of replacing the weather-damaged shakes. In some areas the constant moisture can cause the wood to deteriorate. Care against fire is advised.
Clay and Concrete Tile:
These materials are very durable and have anticipated life of 30 to 50 years. The tiles, however, are brittle and can be damaged, so the roof cannot be walked on. The inspection is very limited.
Slate:
Considered one of the longest lasting roofing materials, slate can endure 50 to more than 100 years. A very brittle and expensive roof, inspections are limited.
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Foundation:
The inspection of the foundation components is limited to visible and accessible areas only. Finished or partially finished basements limit access. Moisture in basements and crawl spaces is a common problem and any indication of water penetration should be reviewed. Control of rain and surface water around the house is critical to keeping foundation areas dry. Moisture can cause decay and deterioration to wooden components and excessive water can damage foundations. Regular inspections and constant water management is advised.
Drainage:
Water removal is important in the basement. Sump pumps and Palmer valves are tested for operability. A stuck or broken Palmer valve can allow water to backflow from the street drain into the home.
Structure:
Floor joists, subflooring and support columns are sometimes hidden in finished or partially finished basements. The visible structural elements will be checked for signs of water damage, water seepage, insect damage and structural stress, such as sagging, bowing, bending or twisting.
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Condition:
The system will be tested using normal homeowner operating controls and thermostats. Loose thermostats should be secured and thermostats that are not centrally located or on outside walls should be relocated for better exchanger performance. Air conditioning systems rely on a constant flow of air through the system to properly operate. Restricted air flow from dirty filters or blocked coils can cause icing on the evaporator coil. Compressor units located outside should also be kept clear of air restriction. Trim back shrubs and grasses, keep debris cleared from the unit and don't place or build anything over the top of the unit that blocks air flow.
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Entry Doors:
Weatherstripping around the entry door keeps cold air from entering the house. If no weatherstripping is provided we recommend it be installed.
Interior Doors:
Doors that stick, bind or won't close properly can be adjusted or trimmed to fit. Sometimes however, when doors are out of square and other related conditions are present, it may be an indication of movement in the structure or foundations. If these notes are made, a qualified civil, structural or geo-technical engineer should be consulted.
Windows:
Windows are checked during out inspection. Cracked or broken panes should be replaced and spackling should be smooth and free of cracks. Any windows that stick, bind or won't open or close properly must be repaired.
Interior Walls:
In occupied homes, not all portions of all walls will be exposed to view. After the occupants remove all of their belongings, it is wise for you to conduct a final walkthrough of the home. Look carefully at areas that were not visible during this inspection.
Ceilings:
Moisture stains on ceilings can come from a variety of sources: plumbing leaks, roof leaks and condensation to name a few. At times it is not possible to determine the cause of a stain. Some older acoustic sprayed ceilings have contained asbestos in the past. Only laboratory testing will accurately reveal asbestos and this testing is not included in the inspection fee.
Floors:
Our evaluation of the floors in the home is to identify major defects where visible. Stains or odors may be hidden and are not part of this inspection. Once furniture and belongings are removed you will be able to view the condition of floor coverings. Do a careful check on your final walkthrough.
Smoke Detectors:
Smoke detectors are most effective when located on each floor, in bedrooms and in hallways outside of bedrooms. These units are tested by pushing the test button. Carbon monoxide detectors are new devices that should be considered if fuel burning appliances are installed in the house.
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Main Water Line:
The main water supply pipe brings water from the street to the home. Older pipe materials may be 1/2" or 3/4" galvanized steel. This type of pipe corrodes internally and may not deliver the volume of water now needed throughout the house. 3/4" copper or plastic pipe is the minimum currently used in construction. Normal water pressure is between 35 and 80 PSI. Excessive pressure can wear on valves, fittings, fixtures and appliances.
Water Supply Lines:
Copper, galvanized, plastic and lead piping have all been used at some time for water systems of residences. Old galvanized piping typically requires replacement due to internal restriction. Lead pipes present a possible health hazard if the lead leaks into the drinking water. A form of plastic piping called "polybutylene" has shown defects from the manufacturing and installation process that can cause leaks. Your inspector is only able to tell you of the condition of the visible piping.
Waste Lines:
These pipes carry the waste from the house to the sewer system. It is impossible to predict waste line blockages as these can occur at any time during use. Some plastic, "ABS" pipes have shown defects from the manufacturing process and can become weak and break.
Fuel System:
Natural gas is delivered to the house through underground pipes. On-site fuel storage may consist of oil or propane fuels. Some homes have been converted to natural gas from oil fuel. These homes may have underground fuel tanks still in place which may contaminate the soil.
Water Heater:
Water heaters are sealed systems which contain a great deal of pressure. The TPR (Temperature & Pressure Relief) valve is a device designed to release excessive pressure from the system. There should be a drain pipe attached to this valve which terminates at a safe location away from body contact. Water heaters sometimes make gurgling noises which are typically the result of built up calcium inside the tank. It is recommended that water heaters be flushed at least once a year to remove the buildup.
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Description:
The heating system includes where the unit is located and the fuel used to generate the heat. Forced air furnaces and water boilers can operate on gas, oil or electricity. Heat pumps utilize electricity to drive the motors and compressors.
Condition:
The system will be tested using normal homeowner operating controls and thermostats. Loose thermostats should be secured and thermostats that are not centrally located or on outside walls should be relocated for better furnace performance. The heat exchanger, vents and ducts are visually inspected if possible. Sealed units, duct and vent work built behind wallboard are not inspected. Signs of corrosion, water leakage, cracks and holes will be noted. Carbon Monoxide testing is performed on the intake (plenum) and flue of the furnace. It is recommended that the furnace be serviced and inspected at least annually. The intake air filter should be checked, cleaned and or replaced monthly during the heating season.
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Condition:
Roof framing, ceiling framing, ventilation, insulation, plumbing vent pipes, recessed ceiling lighting and attic accesses are generally visible in the attic. Water damage from leaking roofs may be noted. Proper ventilation is critical for the prevention of ice dams, which can cause interior as well as exterior damage.
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Kitchen Sink:
Our evaluation of the sink includes turning on the faucet. We check functional flow and look for obvious leaks at the handle and spout. We also run water looking for functional drainage; however, drain lines can become blocked at anytime, and this condition cannot be predicted. Under the sink we check for leaks, rust and corrosion of the sink, drain and supply piping.
General Features:
General features include: condition of counters, cabinets, flooring, windows, ceiling and light fixtures. Many times dishes and belongings will block view of counters and cabinets. These items are not moved during this inspection and you should check these areas during your final walkthrough, and after the occupants have moved out.
Garbage Disposal:
Garbage disposals can rust and corrode internally. It is difficult to verify the condition of the interior of the unit. If the unit vibrates excessively or makes unusual noises, matter may be lodged inside or times replacement may be required.
Range/Oven/Cook Top:
The elements and burners of ovens, ranges and cook tops are checked for functionality only.
Dishwasher:
Our inspection of the dishwasher includes the general condition of the unit, dish racks and door seals. The condition of the pump and motor is not determined since the dishwasher is not disassembled. Racks that are rusted can usually be replaced.
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Water Closet:
Toilets that are loose at the base or at the tank connection pose the possibility of leaking. Sometimes the wax seal at the floor must be replaced to prevent leakage on the floor or below the house.
Sink:
The water shutoff valves below the sink may be tested during the inspection. Many times these valves have not been used for some time and can leak if turned. Overflow drain connections can be usually be seen, also.
Ventilation/Heat:
Bathrooms that contain a tub or shower need ventilation, either through a window or mechanical exhaust vented through the roof or wall.
Bathtub:
Our evaluation of the bathtub consists of the visible and accessible areas only. Many times the drain and supply piping are not accessible and cannot be judged. Maintaining the caulk and grout in good condition is important to avoid leakage. The bathtub must have an overflow drain connection.
Shower:
Shower enclosures should be properly caulked and maintained to avoid leakage. It is recommended that all non-tempered safety glass be replaced in Shower / bath areas.
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